Inhibitory effects of sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides L.) seed on UVB-induced photoaging in human dermal fibroblasts

Sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides L.) seed, which has very high nutraceutical, cosmetoceutical and therapeutic properties, has been widely used to treat diseases in Tibetan and Mongolian traditional medicines. In this study, we measured the antioxidant activities of the solvent-dependent SBS (Sea buckthorn seed) extracts using the DPPH and Folin-Ciocalteu assays and we investigated the efficacy of SBS in protecting skin against UVB-induced damage using cultured human dermal fibroblasts. In addition, the inhibitory effects of SBS on UVB-induced skin photoaging were examined by determining the level of Metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 and procollagen after UVB-irradiation. The antioxidant capacity of the SBSE (alcoholic) extract was significantly higher than the SBSH (hexane) and SBSW (water) extracts, as measured based on the free-radical scavenging activity and total phenolic content. SBSE was chosen as the most suitable candidate antioxidant. In human dermal fibroblasts, the cell viability of SBSE extract at doses of 2.5, 5, and 10 μg/mL was higher than the UVB-treated control. By RT- PCR and Western blot, SBSE treatment inhibited UVB-induced IL-1β expression in cultured cells. In addition, SBSE restrained UVB-induced IL-6 and COX-2 gene expression in cultured fibroblasts in a dose-dependent manner. Treatment with the SBSE extract after UVB irradiation in human dermal fibroblasts significantly reduced MMP-1 expression and increased procollagen synthesis when compared with UVB-irradiation only. In this study, SBSE was shown to increase the synthesis of procollagen, decrease the expression of MMP-1, and inhibit the production of IL-1β, IL-6, and COX-2 in UVB-irradiated human fibroblasts. These findings suggest that the SBSE extract may be a potential therapeutic agent for preventing and treating skin photoaging.